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When compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the owners totally astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest restaurant securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary achievement.